I. Preface Nowadays, the mountaineering craze has quietly risen all over the world. Mountain climbing, rock climbing, and adventure are not fashionable but part of life. In Japan, as many as 80% of the men and women of mountaineering age have had a history of climbing. The popularization of mountaineering in Taiwan Province of China has already occupied a place in the world. The strong heat wave in our country has just arrived! There is no difficulty in the world. How many people with lofty ideals are diligent and hard-working all the time, and they are full of confidence and ambition, but they do not have the opportunity to realize their promises. The hero has no use, why not join us? No matter what method you use. You may have failed, you have suffered, you have troubles with glory and praise, and you walk into the embrace of the mountains and you forget everything. In the Pamirs, money, hate, hate, love and hate, everyone The troubles in the world no longer exist. It is only your self-defeating pride and spiritual purification. The greatest glory and highest realm in life is to surpass oneself. All this can only be achieved with your own strength and will. We just point out the direction for you to the ideal, not help you to go to the mountains. This is enough. ! When you grow up in your hand, you don't wait for me; Let us go hand in hand to Pamir and challenge Muztag together. It will be our common victory in strength, wisdom, will, and faith. Second, climbing difficulty coefficient: *** (enhanced level mountain) Mountain Peak Profile The Muztaga peak is at an altitude of 7546 meters and is located at 75.1 degrees east longitude and 38.5 degrees north latitude. It is located in the Aktau County on the border of Xinjiang Kashi and Kezilesu Autonomous Prefecture. It is east of Subachhda. It is one of the three peaks in the eastern Pamirs. There are four main mountain ridges: the southern ridge, the western ridge, the northwest ridge, and the northeastern ridge. The top of the peak is round and round, and the peaks are snow-covered all year round. The average thickness of ice and snow is 100-200 meters. There are more than a dozen glaciers pouring down in the canyon under the peak body, imposing, and known as the father of the iceberg. The north and east sides of the mountain peak are very steep and cannot be climbed. The west slope of the mountain peak is gentle, and most climbers climb along this traditional route. The climate in this area is similar to that of Gongge Mountain. Because there are many mountains blocking the entrance of the Indian Ocean and the Pacific Ocean, the climate is very dry. The precipitation mainly comes from the interaction between the upper-level westerly winds and the polar cold and humid air currents. In an area with an altitude of about 7,500 meters, the average temperature is -20 degrees, the minimum is -30 degrees, and the maximum wind level is 9 - 11, usually the wind is about 7 degrees. Frequent weather changes are a major feature of this area. Even in the summer season, the mountains may have snow and snow, and the temperature can drop to -20 degrees. Usually climbing activities are generally arranged from June to August. In 1607, Torocher of the United Kingdom came to observe the peak. In 1947, English Shipton and Ullmann failed to attempt mountaineering for the first time. It was not until 1956 that 31 members of the United States and the former Soviet Union climbed the team and worked hard to achieve the final success. Today, with her large and majestic mountain, she has attracted more and more mountaineering enthusiasts at home and abroad. She has become a cradle of Chinese mountaineering. Third, materials and equipment and mountaineering expenses From the traditional route, the base camp from 4300 meters above sea level to 6800 meters above sea level has a slope of 45 degrees. During this period, there are glacial cracks and a steep ice wall. The slope from 6800 meters to the summit is only 15 degrees. Although the climbing technique is not difficult, the mountain is huge, the mountain is relatively flat, the ice is a hundred meters thick, and the snow is deep. C1 above some of the climbing section, soft snow quality of more than half a meter, fine weather in the afternoon, due to strong ultraviolet radiation, the formation of a sticky layer of snow, it is extremely difficult. So climbers must be equipped with snowboarding or mountaineering skis. Technical equipment (according to the number of climbers): Snowboarding, 4-person alpine tents (used in three high-altitude camps), 50-meter junctions, walkie-talkie machines and associated base stations, GPS satellite navigators (at least one per group unit). Personal Equipment: Emergency Jackets, Down Jackets (25°C), Fleece Gloves, Feather Gloves, Two Sleeping Bags (One on the Hill and One in the Camp), Moisture Pad, Mountaineering Mirror Two Pay (One Backup), Seat Belt, Iron Wire 2 , long hail, high mountain boots, snowboarding or mountaineering snowboards, snow boots, etc. Logistic equipment (as determined by the number of teams): mountain tents, mountain stoves, cooking tents, cooking utensils, generators, food, spare oxygen cylinders (for emergency use), medicines, etc. Registration fee (charged by Xinjiang Mountaineering Management Center): The registration fee for domestic mountaineering team is 2,000 yuan. Environmental resource fees (taken by Akto County Mountaineering Association): According to the size of the team, about 1000-2000 yuan. Leasing Camel Expenses: From the side of the highway to the large operations to send supplies, 200 camels per peak. Backing fee: From Ai Camp to 5000 meters ABC, it costs 8-10 yuan per kilogram of material. Aktau Mountaineering Association meals: 120 yuan per person per day. The climbers can also take care of themselves. Mountain guide fee: 7000-8000 yuan for a mountaineering process. Collaborative team members can base their price on the height of the collaboration. Fourth, climbing team composition and division of labor After all, the Muztagh peak is a 7,000-meter-high mountain, which requires a higher physical requirement for the climbing team. A detailed physical training program must be developed when the team plan is prepared. It is advisable to publish it half a year in advance and leave sufficient time for the participants. Prepare. The mountaineering plan must consider emergency plans and medical personnel, because the high incidence of alpine mountaineering in Muztagtal will not be timely and fatal. The Mostag Mountain climbing team is generally controlled by 15 people. At least one chief officer (and team leader) must be provided, one for the chef, one for the doctor, one for the captain (guidance), and two for the alpine collaboration. V. Pre-Climbing Preparation 1. Develop detailed mountaineering plans and corresponding physical training programs. 2. Recruit mountaineering crews and collaborators to handle border passes. 3, apply for mountaineering permits. 4, preparations for climbing supplies. 5, contact the mountain traffic. Traffic conditions and into the mountain route From Kashgar, take a bus along the China-Pakistan Highway and travel 160 km to Lake Karakuri. Arrival at the Khuhu Mountaineering Reception Station of the Aktau Mountaineering Association and make an appointment for a camel. Then continue to exercise Dasibashi (204 bases), which is 22 kilometers to 3,700 meters above sea level, and then use camels to carry goods into the mountains. After 8 kilometers, you can reach the Mostag peak hiking base at 4,300 meters above sea level. Six, climb the line Muztagag Mountaineering Base Camp BC is located at the foot of the western side of the mountain peak, 4300 meters above sea level. The Akto County Mountaineering Association established the China International Mountaineering Karakul Reception Station on the shores of Karakul Lake, 22 km north of Base Camp. In the 4,350-meter-basement building, there are two tin houses that mainly provide cooking services. It will be used to receive mountaineering teams from all over the world. Camp 1 C1 is located on the gentle slope of a rocky ice and snow intersection at 5,400 meters. Because of the year-round mountaineering activities, it is easy to find artificially laid platforms for the erection of tents. The route from BC to C1 is a gravel slope of about 35 degrees, with a clear trail taken by the climber up to C1. There is a camp known as ABC between BC and C1. It is actually a platform artificially built on the gravel slope using natural terrain. At an altitude of about 5,000 meters, it is only used as a unloading site for human transport. The local animal transport has a relatively uniform fee, and every kilogram of mountaineering materials is transported here for a fee of US$ 8-10. This is a small sum of expenditure for this mountaineering activity. The general march from base camp to camp C1 takes 5-6 hours. The C2 camp should be set on a 6300-meter-high platform above the icefall area. After going up, it will be found that there is a platform for camping at 6,100m and 6,300m. 6100 meters is usually called low C2, 6300 meters is called high C2. Some foreign mountaineering teams set the camp to a high C2 in order to directly attack the main peak from the high C2 crossing C3 camp and then quickly ski back to C1, eliminating the anoxic suffering suffered during the night camp at C3. The C1 to C2 camp is the steepest and most complicated section of the Muztagtal hiking route. From the altitude of 5,500 meters into the icefall area, the terrain is complex and there are four cracks. Some sections have a slope of more than 45 degrees, and the snow is thicker, the wind direction is more varied, the slopes of ice slopes are staggered, the horizon is blocked by fog and snow, and marching is very difficult. You must be careful to look for the route specified by the flag. Otherwise, you will be in danger of getting lost or falling into ice cracks. Taking these factors into consideration, a temporary camp (called C1.5) can be set up at 5,700 meters for the climbers to use during breaks and emergencies. In 1999, when the Mountaineering Exploration Association of Urumqi climbed the Muztag Peak, the utilization rate of the C1.5 camp was very high and played an important role. It usually takes 6-7 hours from C1 to C2. From C2 to C3, the slope gradually slows but the journey lengthens. This route is a step-by-step distribution and there is a large platform at 6700m and 6800m. C3 camp can be set at 6700 meters, although the relative height from the assault main peak is more than 800 meters, but it is conducive to rest. Starting from C3, after climbing a 30-40 degree slope, it is a large gentle slope leading to the main peak. The average slope is about 15 degrees, but long journeys, transient weather, and an oxygen-deficient environment close to 7000 meters are a severe test for climbers. Because of the year-round winds and the bare rocks, the surrounding landscape of the peaks can be seen on the rock slopes as traces of the climbers. Seventh, climbing record After 6700m C3 camp, due to the long-term consumption of oxygen and physical strength, it will cause dull judgment and even misjudge the direction. In 2002, after the summit of the Urumqi Mountaineering Expeditionary Association's three members climbed to the top, due to sudden changes in weather, the peak visibility was only a few meters. Although the GPS navigation device was used, it did not locate the C3, misjudgment, and lost its direction at 7,200 meters. A dangerous glaciers evacuated. A snow cave was dug at 7,000 meters that night. It took a night of hunger and coldness and returned to base camp on a dangerous route the next night. When the Mountaineering Expedition Association of Urumqi first climbed Muztagaghorn in 1999, it also encountered a similar encounter in C3 camp. The following is an actual record of the time: After several days of mountain adaptability, the team climbed until the establishment of camps C1 and C2 on July 16. On the morning of July 17, Wang Tienan, Chen Junchi, and Yao Weilun each went to C2 with a pair of treads. The use of snowboards did save a lot of power. Less than three noon to reach C2. On the morning of the same day, Yang Lizhi, Ma Yihua, and Wang Lei, who reside in C2, have already set off to establish C3 camp. In order to gain time, the trio did not use knot ropes. Above the C2 camp, there is a long crack that crosses the climbing route. Soon after his departure, Yang Lizhi, who was in front of the road, stepped into the dark crack that was half a meter wide. This moment, he immediately fell back, using a mountaineering rucksack hanging in the edge of the ice seam, was pulled up by the subsequent Wang Lei. Wang Lei, a Beijing player, was relatively young. After seeing this dangerous situation, confidence was shaken and he immediately decided to withdraw. Yang Lizhi took the tent back from Wang Lei and continued to climb up with Ma Yihua. Wang Lei met with Chen Junchi, Yao Weilun and the captain who were climbing to C2 on the way down. The captain and three other people arrived at the C2 camp and received Yang Lizhi’s call from the walkie-talkie. He and Ma Yihua have already reached 6,600 meters. It is just a large platform and can be built. As the snow was too thick, Yang Lizhi, who had been in front of the road, suffered a serious decline in his physical strength. He requested to camp on the spot and build C3 tomorrow. Considering that the follow-up groupings have already started, if the establishment of C3 camps is delayed for one day, the entire plan will be disrupted and the subsequent groupings will be pressured on C2 camps. The C2 camp only has a 3 person tent. The captain immediately decided to let Yang Lizhi immediately withdraw to C2. He returned to C1.5 to welcome Yang Liqun and Wang Haijiao, and tried to inform the back of the group to stand by on C1. The captain, Chen Junchi and Yao Weilun will establish C3 camp tomorrow. In the circumstances, Yang Lizhi, who was born as a scout, was psychologically difficult to accept this order and was unwilling to withdraw. After consultation between the two of them, the captain and Ma Yihua called and they expressed their desire to make another effort to climb up to 100 meters, camp at 6700 meters, and assault the main peak early tomorrow morning. The captain must have agreed to this plan. In hindsight, this decision was reluctant. However, their efforts and efforts have indeed paved the way for the subsequent summit. On the early morning of July 18th, Chen Junchi and Yao Weilun set out to enter C3 as planned, and assault the main peak early tomorrow morning. In the C1.5 Wang Tienan captain, collusion climbed down on Yang Lizhi, with follow-up Wang Haijiao, Yang Liqun stationed in C2. From 5pm on the 21st, captain Wang Tienan stopped and went to a high C2 camp around 9:00. At this time he was hungry and cold, and his ability to move was weak. The high C2 camp has two tents that live in foreign teams. He opened the tent and asked for a glass of water. Although the captain has been severely depleted, the other party has no intention of retaining it. At this time, the sky gradually darkened, the mountain body began to be surrounded by dense fog, and the footprints on the snow had been difficult to identify. The captain did his utmost to make a downward move. Based on time projections, he should also reach C2. However, he can't see what the goal is. At this time, he truly felt lonely and fear. He once shouted loudly, hoping for a response, but it had no effect. Due to the dark fog, I was limping in the air and fell into a snowfall more than three meters high. Because of the thick snow, he did not fall, but he was a little desperate at this time, exhausted his last strength and shouted, and used the headlights to send signals to the mountain. At this time, the foreign players in the C2 camp heard shouts and took photos with the headlights. The captain was just preparing to withdraw and the lights disappeared. At this moment, the captain is clearly aware of his situation. Judging from the light reaction, his position is not far from C2, and there should be a long dark crack in front of him. Yang Lizhi and Chen Junchi are almost trapped inside. According to the physical condition at that time, once it fell, it would be unable to save itself, and it would be difficult to be found by teammates. Only by persisting till dawn could there be hope for survival. In the 6100m C2 camp, the temperature inside the tent reached minus 15 degrees during the night. The snow-capped mountains at 6,200 meters are filled with snow and snow, and coldness can be imagined. What is even more serious is how deep the snow pit beneath him is, and whether drastic activities will lead to further subsidence. All this is impossible to predict. The captain, with his experience and perseverance, had overcome the constant drowsy desire in the snow pit, insisted on non-stop activities, and persisted until the next day, before he could climb out of the snowballs and return to C2 camp. This caused severe frostbite on both feet. On the morning of the 22nd, in the camp of C700 at 6700 meters, according to the situation at the time, the only feasible solution was to let Yang Liqun and Wang Haijiao withdraw. Until 11:10, Yang Liqun had been withdrawn for an hour. Wang Haijiao still could not start. Due to severe mountain reaction and physical exhaustion, Wang Haijia lost his sense of balance and fell several times after several steps. Professor Zhang and Wang Haijiao are teacher-student relations. In this case, in order to avoid student casualties, Prof. Zhang resolutely changed the plan and gave up the final chance to make a summit. He personally held down Wang Haijiao. Wang Haijiao was more than 1 meter 8 in size. After losing the balance, almost all of the body's weight was on Professor Zhang. How far did he go, Professor Zhang had already been soaked all over his body, approaching collapse, and could no longer send Wang Haijiao down the hill. At this moment of life and death, he only got out of the corner of communication and called C2 through the walkie-talkie and asked Tang Gao to come forward. At this time, the three Slovenians who had assaulted the main peak saw the situation at once and immediately abandoned the summit and took off from Wang Haijiao. The Slovenian team, who was heavily ski-ridden, did not know how many times it fell and still persisted in the rescue. After Tang Gaojiao at C2 camp got a call for help, he quickly climbed to 6400 meters to pick up. In the afternoon, he finally escorted Wang Haijiao to C2. From these three foreign players who have never met each other, we have seen the lofty ideological realm and personality power of the climbers. This event made it difficult for all team members to forget. After more than 20 days of climbing, 5 members of the Urumqi Mountaineering Expedition Association climbed to the top, but they also paid a heavy price. Hong Kong player Chen Junwu suffered a frostbite and was amputated. VIII. Contact information of local mountaineering and rescue departments Kashgar Mountaineering Association: Telephone Fax: (0998) 2522957 Akto Mountaineering Association Xinjiang Mountaineering Association: Jin Yingjie 0991-382793613609939029 Urumqi Mountaineering Adventure Association Wang Tienan 0991-382841413009681695
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At 7 a.m. on July 18th, Yang Lizhi and Ma Yihua, who had assaulted the main peak, set off with their headlights. After climbing more than 100 meters, Ma Yibiao's headlights lacked batteries and he had no confidence in climbing without the snowboard. He retraced C3. Yang Lizhi was alone and insanely assaulted. He successfully reached the summit at 12:48 and immediately returned after ingesting the top information. Because he did not step on the snowboard, he had serious overdrafts. He squatted when he stepped down. The crampons under his feet had already kept the snow from being slack. Repeated hallucinations occurred on the way, and several times near the time of rest were in a state of drowsiness. A foreign mountaineer who had withdrawn from the top of the mountain saw the situation and gave up on the skiing downhill, not far behind Yang Lizhi. Whenever he slept, he was immediately awake and was escorted near Camp C3. In this case, C3 Ma Yibiao abandoned the plan for the summit on the second day and immediately escorted Yang Lizhi to C2 camp.
On July 19, Captain Wang Tie-Men took Yang Liqun and Wang Haijiao and began to climb C3. Five hours later, when the captain approached C3, he used a walkie-talkie to connect with Chen Junchi and Yao Weilun who were stationed at C3 on the 18th. To his surprise, the two men are still in camp C3. The reason is that C3 had a night of snow yesterday and visibility was only a few meters. It was impossible to surprise the main peak on schedule. Two hours later, the captain, Yang Liqun and Wang Haijiao reached C3 in succession. At that time, Wang Haijiao was unable to support himself and he fell asleep as soon as he got into the tent. Wang Haijiao is big and his legs reach into the tent porch. The rest of the people sit one by one, making it difficult for everyone to boil water. That evening, Wang Tienan, Chen Junchi, and Yao Weilun had to assault the main peak anyway tomorrow, even if the weather was worse. If five people stay in the tent for one more day, both physical and food will run out. On the early morning of the 20th, the weather at the C3 camp was not good, and the strong, high-altitude wind continued to blow. The 6,700-meter camp itself was very oxygen-deprived. Five people crowded into a double tent and could not breathe. In spite of the great wind outside, they still opened up the ventilation holes and the inner tents. In addition to Wang Haijiao, the four have been waiting for dawn. At 5 a.m., Chen Jun Chi proposed to cook a pot of chocolate water to supplement the energy. Everyone started drinking and then each person sent a mountain food called Powerbar. The temperature on the porch was very low. It took a long time to boil a pot of water and uncovered the lid. The strong chocolate aroma at that time was actually disgusting and could not be consumed at all. At 6 o'clock in the morning, all three had packed up their equipment and wanted to set off as early as possible. They could walk out of the tent, and the outside was dark and floating with snowflakes. Even with a headlight, it was difficult to see the road. The trio had to return to the tent. One hour later, the sky gradually turned brighter. The three men put on a snowboard and began to surprise the main peak. The beginning was Chen Junchi's opening. Not long after, his stomach was very uncomfortable, and Yao Yaolun was used to open the way. Due to differences in physical strength, three hours later, the distance between the three people was widened. Fortunately, there are many flags on the road leading to the main peak. Otherwise, there is a danger of losing one's way at any moment on the vast and flat mountains. At 12 o'clock, Yao Weilun first got on the main peak. After half an hour, Chen Junchi also climbed up. At noon, the peak weather is very bad and the fog is heavy. A gust of wind blew in front of me. I couldn't see anything but a few meters away. On the open mountain top, terrible loneliness has been accompanied by climbers. At 14:00, the captain Wang Tienan only got into trouble. He ran into Chen Junchi, who was hurrying to retire. He told the captain that at the peak of his resolution, the stool was full of oil. The old disease that may have stomach bleeding recurred again, and it was not dangerous to retire as soon as possible. Upon arriving at the C3 camp, he swallowed the hemostatic and returned to BC. Yao Longlun waited for more than two hours after he reached the summit. After the captain came up, he hurriedly took a few forensics films to quickly withdraw. Yao Weilun took a short break at C3 and returned to BC that evening. The captain fell asleep as soon as he entered the C3 tent because of his high physical strength. In the afternoon, the temperature in the accounts was as high as 40°C under strong ultraviolet radiation in the mountains. At this time, Yang Liqun and Wang Haijiao were trapped by the alpine reaction. They had no appetite and they just fell asleep. In particular, Wang Haijiao, motionless, has no consciousness of boiling water to cook at all.
From the afternoon of the 20th, Chen Junwu, who left the team yesterday, suddenly appeared in C2 camp miraculously. At the same time, starting from the afternoon of the 20th, according to the team’s intentions, the last supporting member, Tang Gaoju, set out from BC and took a rest on C1 that evening, and made it to C2 on the 21st. On the evening of the 20th, the C2 camp meeting decided that 21 Early in the morning, Zhang Yaodong, Ma Yihua and Wang Haohao marched into C3 to prepare for the assault. On the morning of the 21st, the sky floated snowflakes from time to time. In C3 camp, Yang Liqun and Wang Haijiao have been lethargic, that is, there is no preparation for the summit, and there is no consciousness of escaping. Since radio communications entered a dead end, the captain did not know whether the subsequent group could come up and still had hope for their summit. On the afternoon of the 21st, the captain repeated Yang Liqun's provocation before coming down. He raided the main peak early in the morning and he would withdraw if it did not work. In fact, when the captain made this decision, due to prolonged lack of oxygen and high levels of fatigue, his mental judgment was not very accurate, and the status of the two was erroneously estimated. At about 5 pm, the captain started to withdraw, and at a normal speed of more than three hours to reach the C2 camp, but because of serious overdraft, two ski sticks barely supported the body and they had to sit and rest for almost every ten steps. Zhang Yaodong, Ma Yihua, and Wang Yujie, who were attacked by C3, looked at the captain who was rickety from the telescope and were worried about his mental and physical condition. That night, the Iron Man captain experienced a dangerous catastrophe. Zhang Yaodong and others entered C3 camp and there was no reaction in the camp area. The tent was opened and it was discovered that Wang Haijiao and Yang Liqun had already entered a severely mountainous state of reaction, and they did not enter grain for two days. The condition of Wang Haijiao was even more serious. He lay on one side and placed his feet on the porch, making it difficult to boil water. Ma Yihua reluctantly burned a pot of water at the door and drank Wang Haijiao and Yang Liqun. He wanted them to go to the Swiss team tent for the night, and three people would do something to eat tomorrow's assault on the top, but Wang Haijiao did not go and could not cook. People did not drip in overnight. That evening, Yang Liqun and Ma Yihua were forced to spend the night in a tent that was idle for the Swiss team 100 meters away. Because there was only one sleeping bag, he had to wear all the clothes to cover the sleeping bag and sleep. In addition, standing outside for a long time led to a slight frostbite on the feet of Ma Yihua. At this point, the three players who started climbing on the morning of the morning had not eaten for 16 hours. In this case, the team leader Zhang Yaodong decided that Yang Liqun and Wang Haijiao should immediately withdraw the following day. 